Ever wonder why the ice lollies you make at home don’t taste quite as uniformly delicious as the ones in the freezer? Well, you may have been perfecting your popsicle-making technique for years, but the ones in the store have a hundred years of science and innovation in their corner. It all started with one particularly brilliant 11-year-old boy…
One evening in 1905, Frank Epperson was hanging out on his porch in San Francisco, playing with his food—as kids do. He was using a little stick to stir around water and powdered soda in a cup, and, when he went inside for the evening, he forgot to take the concoction in with him. The night was a particularly cold one for SF, and the drop in temperature ended up working a little magic on the abandoned liquid. When Epperson returned to the porch in the morning, his sugary water had turned into a sweet icicle on a stick. As people do when they invent something great, he named his invention after himself. Voila, the Epsicle.
He was, of course, only 11—a little young for serious entrepreneurship. But even then he knew he was on to something. First he turned his friends into Epsicle fans, and then later he converted his own kids. And what did Epperson’s children ask for when they wanted one of their father’s frozen treats? A Pop’s ‘sicle, of course. The name stuck.
Starting in 1923, Epperson senior applied for a series of patents to secure the design for his “frozen confectionery.” The documents discuss consistency (“syrup results in a crystalline product of hard snowy consistency”), stick material (“employ a wooden stick of relatively porous though sapless and tasteless wood”), freezing method (“rapid refrigeration results in a more uniform product”), and vessel shape (“ordinary test tubes”). The Popsicle was officially born.
Although Epperson’s design was a good one, stick-born frozen treats have come a long way. Better manufacturing techniques now produce pops with a more consistent flavor, and food science has given them a drip resistant structure.
Both improvements really come down to the ingredients. First let’s tackle the taste. Popsicles are basically made from water, sugar, and some other flavour elements. Although everything appears harmonious in liquid form, those elements start to disagree once the temperature drops. Water is easy enough to nudge into a solid, but the sugar and flavouring don’t react the same way to the temperature change. In a normal freezer, the water freezes faster, and large ice crystals clump up between the ingredients responsible for taste. The result is that familiar, uneven home-brew popsicle taste.
Popsicles from the store (™) taste better because modern manufacturing techniques bully the ice into integrating better with the sugar and flavour. It’s done by chilling the pops in a brine bath set to -40 degrees Fahrenheit. The setup forces the water to freeze en masse instead of in stages, so it has less time to congregate and the crystals stay smaller. The flavour elements are better integrated, suspended evenly in a matrix of tiny ice crystals.
There are other things that help with the flavour and the freezing, too. Ingredients like xanthan gum and locust bean are in your cherry pop because they make the liquid thicker; it’s another way companies prevent the water from becoming too cliquey when the temperature plumets.
But these so-called stabilisers come in handy when we’re eating them as well. On a really hot day, the sun does everything in its power to knock your frozen treat off its stick, one drip at a time. But stabilisers slow down the melt by preventing the ice from flowing. They’re basically there to tell the popsicle to cool it.
Ah, science: so refreshing!
Image Credit: Carlos Caetano from Shutterstock













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Translation fail. We don’t call them popsicles in these parts. Or at least we never did in my day, who knows what the young ‘uns say these days.
That’s entirely my doing *hangs head*
Strike up another black mark against Australia, for taking yet another Americanese term instead of the British one…
So we can add Popsiclegate to Gnomegate on the charge sheet then? Lord Hutton’s going to be busy.
This reminds me of a trip to Bondi and a misunderstanding about what exactly “thongs” were…
I got sunburnt that day I can tell you!
Another translation fail: we don’t really have any idea what these ‘Fahrenheit’ thingies are x.x
Don’t know why I know this…but before entering Politics Margaret Thatcher attained a Chemistry Degree from Oxford and subsequently went to work for Lyons in Hammersmith, London to experiment with the texture and emulsification of ingredients/products…
…During her time there, she was part of a small team who invented Mr. Whippy-style soft-scoop ice cream after discovering the astonishingly tastiness achieved by adding a little vegetable oil and compressed air to fat/sugar/cream.
They didn’t mention THAT in ‘The Iron Lady’!
*astonishing tastiness
Curse you lack of edit button!
There’s a “who” in there as well that should have been a “which”…
…Friday Lunchtime drinking, you are both a blessing and a pain!
I’d advised you to have something to eat to help you sober up but I suspect you’d go for booze soaked cereals of some kind, which wouldn’t help.
Also during her time there a group of colleagues locked here in a freezer for several hours as a joke. As a result of the sub zero temperatures her heart froze solid and has never thawed to this day. True story,
Yeah, it’s well known in Scotland. In fact, that’s what she’s predominantly famous for up here.
Little did anyone know that her later career would be characterised by the withdrawing of milky treats from children.
Funnily enough I was reading about the sinking of the Belgrano today and a a quote from Dennis Thatcher stuck in my head; after a tough TV interview, he declared that she had been “stitched up by the poofs and trots” at the Beeb. That guy was OFF-THE-LEASH!